From Bussana to Arma di Taggia, an incredible and fascinating trip among the hills

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The village of the artists followed by the witches town in an area briming with pines and chestnut trees crossing the charming Argentina Valley. Old oil presses to ancient sanctuaries blessed with artistic treasures.

Bussana vecchia, a village with 60 inhabitants, is famous throughout Europe. It was rebuilt by Italian and foreign artists after it was destroyed by an earthquake. Bussana can be reached from the sea. There are still traces of the old walls, the houses have retained all their charm, but the village is still without electricity.

Perhaps that's why no less than 10 children were born last year. We return to the sea and the wide sandy beach of Arma di Taggia, bursting with sun even in the winter, and we go up State Highway 548 to Taggia. Here were are in the green Argentina valley and its torrent. Badalucco faces right over the torrent. Three kilometres away the medieval village of Montalto Ligure sticks out on a summit. The centre of the village is the site of the beautiful bell tower and the Church of St. John the Baptist that preserves the polyptych of St. George, a masterpiece by Ludovico Brea, that is truly worth the visit. The holiday of St. John is celebrated on 24th June.

We return to the ever narrower Argentina valley and we arrive in Molini di Triora, which was named after the 23 grinding mills that were once operational and today famous for the "snail festival" in September. And here in Triora, the town of the witches, called "bagiue" in dialect. Just hearsay? Not at all. The witch trial was held in 1558 and its records are kept in the local Museum of withcraft and rural lifestyle.

There certainly is no lack of magical atmosphere among the beautiful alleys with the old sculpted slate portals, or on the counters of the shops displaying "bewitching" mushrooms, honey and local cheeses. The 17th century Oratory of St. John the Baptist contains a statue by Maragliano and a painting by L. Cambiaso, while the 18th century Church of the Madonna del Buon Viaggio offers a stupendous view.

And now we delve further into the mountain scenery among pastures, woods and farmer's houses. After Creppo we find Realdo, 1000 m above sea level, with stone houses clinging to a huge rock followed by Verdeggia, a characteristic Alpine village. Returning to Molini di Triora, we reach Andagna, with its spectacular stronghold, turning off onto a dirt road. We have to have the proper tyres and a bit of care because the road is narrow and rises sheer above the valley, but it's worth it all thanks to the amazing panoramic views and the wild and uncontaminated scenery.

After 9 km here is San Bernardo di Conio, on the pass, and from here toward Carpasio we descend to Colle d'Oggia. The alternative route includes the return from Molini di Triora to Montalto Ligure and through the Carpasia valley to Colle d'Oggia, after encountering the village of Carpasio, whose name refers to the peace treaty between the Ligurian tribes and the Romans. Old slate roofs and stone walls still appear unexpectedly in the middle of chestnut woods. From Colle d'Oggia we reach Pantasina. The Sanctuary of the Madonna della Guardia, surrounded by old, majestic holm oaks, greets us on a panoramic viewpoint, just before entering the village.

We soon return to the land of the olive trees and oil presses. Here we find Molini di Prelà with the Sanctuary of Montegrazie at a picturesque observation point. And then Dolcedo with its oil presses and the houses all in a row on the banks of the Prino torrent, crossed by 5 bridges including the Ponte dei Cavalieri di Malta, from 1292. The road runs between vineyards and olive groves. Here we find the massive Parish Sanctuary of Nostra Signora Assunta dei Piani, from where we catch a glimpse of the blue sea. It is only in Liguria where the mountains and the sea are so closely linked. And now we have arrived in Imperia.

We take via Aurelia (State Highway 1) and enjoy the myriad hues of this splendid sea and the beautiful coastal towns. From San Lorenzo al Mare we reach Santo Stefano al Mare, with an octagon-shaped fort from the 16th century, and then Riva Ligure, with the Parish Church where we can admire several sculptures by Anton Maria Maragliano. And finally we have returned to Arma di Taggia.