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Home > Tours > Riviera dei Fiori > From Balzi Rossi to Bordighera

From Balzi Rossi to Bordighera through the mountains

From the Palaeolithic to the Middle Ages, from the astronomical observatory to the smallest "Principality" in the world, through the three different environments of Val Roja, Val Nervia and Vallecrosia.

The Riviera dei Fiori begins to the west of the French border. First stop the Balzi Rossi, the most important Ligurian archaeological area. 200 thousand years ago man lived in the spectacular caves rising sheer above the sea. Traces of this prehistoric cave dweller are preserved in the Prehistoric Museum. Just a few kilometres away and we reach the promontory of Mortola with the Villa Hanbury Gardens, 18 hectares of luxurious vegetation with palms and cactus, including Asian plants and trees from the Australian forest.

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Now we come to  Ventimiglia and taking State Highway 20 of Colle di Tenda we enter the narrow and winding Val Roja, an ancient salt trail. Here is Airole, a charming medieval village with the Church of Saints James and Philip. The Patron Saint day is celebrated on 1st May. Just above we find Olivetta San Michele, divided into several districts, on the border with France. We return to Ventimiglia and from here to Vallecrosia, renowned for its flowers and the Italian Music Museum. The guard Tower is located in the old fortified village. We enter Val Nervia heading toward Pigna.

After passing Camporosso, that conserves the ruins of the Church of St. Peter (11th century) with the square bell tower, we come to Dolceacqua, divided in half by the Nervia torrent crossed by the elegant single-span medieval bridge. Here we admire the polyprych of Santa Devota, by Ludovico Brea, in the Parish Church of San Antonio Abate, the old Castle, where musical festivals are held in August, and the Parish of St. George. Is there anything else we want to know? Well, there's the "Visionarium" with its documentaries.
A real must is the procession on 20th January and a good glass of the famous Rossese, a DOC wine from Dolceacqua. We take a detour to Rocchetta Nervina: an ancient fortified village, where the festival of the local dish: goat with beans, is celebrated on the last Sunday in August. We return to the provincial road and reach Isolabona, in the centre of which there is a stone fountain dating back to 1486.
Then back up to Pigna, an old village clinging to a mountain slope. It is also a must to visit the beautiful Loggia of Piazza Vecchia, the 15th century Parish Church of St. Michael with the large polyptych and the Chapel of San Bernardo with the cycle of frescoes. The Hot Springs of Val Nervia, the Ventimiglia Poetry and Comedy Festival the first week of August as well as the mushroom festival in September, make Pigna an irresistible stopping point.
And now taking a road in the middle of olive and chestnuts trees we reach CastelVittorio, an ancient feud that dominates the valley with its Bell Tower of the church of San Vittorio on the summit surrounded by the red roofs of the old houses. The festival of St. Joseph is celebrated on 19th March, while the festival of the "peti de muneghe" or sweet pancakes is held in September.
Now we climb up to 900 m to reach Bajardo, nestled at the summit of a rocky spur. From the "terrace on the Alps", there is an exceptionally beautiful view of the Ligurian and Maritime Alps. The Oratory of San Salvatore contains a Polyptych of the Transfiguration, by Emanuele Maccari, from 1552. "Ra Barca", a picturesque festival celebrating the Pentecost, pays homage to the death at sea of the daughter of the count of Baiardo, who ran away with her lover.
We drop down to Apricale, "land of the sun", situated on a slope in the middle of olive trees. From a medieval stone arch and across steep roads decorated with modern murals, we reach the Castello della Lucertola, including a special Museum. One of the places to see is the Oratory of San Bartolomeo, with a wooden polyptych from 1500. Used as anair theatre in August, the ancient village also has artisan shops and ateliers. The patron saint day is celebrated on 8 September and the festival of the "pansarola", a typical sweet, is held the following Sunday.
Just a few kilometres away and we reach the summit of Perinaldo that dominates Valle Crosia among olive groves and vineyards. The astronomical Observatory is dedicated to an important astronomer who lived here in the 1600s, and was called to the court of Louis XIV. In the village, which dates back to the 11th century, the Church of San Nicolo has a wooden cross from the 1400s. Then there is the festival of Santa Giustina at the end of September, and the celebration of San Nicola di Bari on 6th December. After about twenty km we find Seborga, on another panoramic plain, a miniature "principality" with a complex history, whose prince (elected), issued passports, stamps and coined currency. It has a magnificent Palazzo dei Monaci.
We continue to Vallebona, with the typical medieval structure of a Ligurian village: rocks protruding from the walls of the dwellings where it is easy to get lost among the narrow alleys and stone stairs. The Church of St. Lawrence has a 13th century bell tower and a sculpted slate portal. From here we descend to the sea, to Bordighera.
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